Unnamed Unclimbed Expeditions | Gateway to Himalayan Alpinism

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About Us

Ali Jaffri, Ph.D. Ali holds a doctorate in geology and runs a consulting firm (Applied Stratigraphix) out of Westminster, Colorado. He has been climbing rock and ice in the Colorado Rockies, Sierra Nevada and Norway for ten years. In the Himalayas and Karakoram of northern Pakistan he has done all major treks including the Baltoro, Nanga Parbat basecamps from both the Raikot and Rupal face, Deosai Plateau,...

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Trekking

There are hundreds of trekking/backpacking options in northern Pakistan. I have listed some of my personal favorites and have chosen them on the basis of easy logistics, safety, and views. The majority of these treks can be done in a day granted you have trained and are acclimatized. You can chose to do these yourself, assuming you have some experience in reading maps and satellite images, that you speak...

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Big Wall Climbing

Pakistan has the highest concentration of granite big walls in the world. This includes the Trango Towers which have recently become a base-jumping hotspot (3 times higher than any base-jumping destination in Norway).The Charakusa, Nangma and Hushe Valleys have seen a ridiculously high number of first ascents in the past decade. Towers along the Biafo-Hispar glaciers have been attempted by several parties...

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5000 meter peaks

Compiling this section has been difficult, not because there is a lack of 5000 meter peaks in Pakistan, but because records about them are often unreliable. Besides popular peaks such as Rash Peak in Hunza or Buldar and Jalipur peaks close to Nanga Parbat, information is sparse. The only source of reliable information regarding first ascents in Pakistan is Nazir Sabir Expeditions, and they too do not keep...

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6000 meter peaks

6000 meter peaks in Pakistan are concentrated in the central Karakoram and to a lesser extent in Chitral Valley. Information regarding first ascents is few and far between. Some peaks such as “Sonia Peak” in Shimshal involve non-technical ascents and are called “trekking peaks” by local guides. However these trekking peaks make up a very small percentage of largely technical climbs....

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7000 meter peaks

Pakistan has the highest concentration of 7000 meter peaks in the world – 163 to be precise. The majority of these are located in the Central Karakoram around Hunza Valley, and along the Baltoro and Biafo Glaciers. Another cluster of mainly unclimbed or peaks with very few routes are in Chitral, very close to the Afghan border. Some of these peaks are at the centerpiece of mountaineering...

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8000 meter peaks

Nepal has nine of the world’s fourteen 8000 meter peaks. Pakistan has K2, “the mountaineer’s mountain.” Pakistan has Nanga Parbat “the killer mountain” and the fastest growing mountain in the world (it grows at the same rate as your finger nails). Pakistan has Broad Peak – broad because the summit ridge is 5 km long. There are no sherpas pulling and pushing clients...

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Extended stay in Hunza Valley

Explore traditional village life in the heart of the Karakoram. We offer extended stay options at our lodge or with a village family in Hunza Valley. The only sounds you will hear is the flow of water in the many kools (canals) used to irrigate cherry, apricot and apple orchards and the occasional avalanche coming off of Rakaposhi or Phekker. Our lodge is available during spring when tourists all over the...

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Recent From Blog

Glacier Travel Crevasse Rescue II: Gear

Posted by Ali Jaffri on 4-21-13

2013 Piolet d’Or winner Kyle Dempster talks about Pakistan

Posted by Ali Jaffri on 4-9-13

Techniques for Efficiency on Ice

Posted by Ali Jaffri on 3-30-13

Hayden Kennedy talks about his experiences in Pakistan

Posted by Ali Jaffri on 3-4-13

Glacier Travel Crevasse Rescue I: hazards of glaciated terrain

Posted by Ali Jaffri on 2-23-13

Conrad Anker talks about his mountaineering experience in Pakistan

Posted by Ali Jaffri on 2-7-13

Objective Hazards and Decision Making in the Karakoram and Lesser Himalayas – taking responsibility for your own safety

Posted by Ali Jaffri on 1-31-13

Recent From Peak of the Month

Unnamed Unclimbed Bigwalls – ~ 20,000 feet/6000 meters

Posted by Ali Jaffri on 4-8-13

Sangemarmar Sar – 22,799 feet/6949 meters

Posted by Ali Jaffri on 4-8-13

Noshaq – 22,966 feet/7690 meters

Posted by Ali Jaffri on 2-9-13

Momhil Sar – 24,090 feet/7343 meters

Posted by Ali Jaffri on 1-2-13

Bojoahgur Dunasir (a.k.a Hunza Peak) – 24,239 feet/7388 meters

Posted by Ali Jaffri on 1-2-13

Spantik (a.k.a Golden Peak) – 23,189 feet / 7027 meters

Posted by Site Admin on 9-11-12

Latest Peaks

Batura (25,574 feet/7795 meters)

Posted by Ali Jaffri on 2-12-13

Golden Throne aka Conway’s Saddle aka Baltoro Kangri (23,990 feet/7312 meters)

Posted by Ali Jaffri on 2-12-13

Kunyang Chish (25,761 feet/7852 meters)

Posted by Ali Jaffri on 2-12-13

Istoronal (24,288 feet/7403 meters)

Posted by Ali Jaffri on 2-12-13

Trivor (24,859 feet/7757 meters)

Posted by Ali Jaffri on 2-12-13

Most Recent Articles

Glacier Travel Crevasse Rescue II: Gear

Posted by Ali Jaffri on Apr 21, 2013 in Blog | 0 comments

Once you have decided to travel on a glacier. A few months of planning and preparation are in order. Your team must purchase the gear needed, and then practice using it until it becomes part of your muscle memory....

2013 Piolet d’Or winner Kyle Dempster talks about Pakistan

Posted by Ali Jaffri on Apr 9, 2013 in Blog | 0 comments

I met Kyle Dempster during an ice-climbing clinic at Ouray 2013. As I got to know him I realized that besides being a bad-ass climber he is a very high quality individual. After his epic solo climb of Tahu Ratum...